I think saving for college used to be an easier equation for most parents, just know how much school costs per year, and save up for four year’s worth.  Now, it seems more complicated for several reasons:

  • College costs have grown much faster than inflation and cost of living increases in parents’ salaries
  • There’s a general backlash against students being riddled with college debt long after graduation
  • Trade schools or alternate specialized schools that take less than four years are increasingly attractive
  • Politicians at the state and federal levels occasionally push for a free public college education
  • Some countries provide free college education to foreigners already and with how easy it is to keep in touch now, this feels like a more realistic option than ever

With all this in mind, we decided not to tie up all of our college savings in the traditional 529 college savings accounts.  There are still great tax advantages to 529s so we didn’t entirely give up on them either.  I used one of those online college estimators, which all estimated between $100k and $150k per child, and decided on the following plan:

  • While paying for full-time day care and preschool, we didn’t explicitly save for any college expenses (kids are expensive!).
  • Once they entered public elementary school, we took 1/3 of the previous monthly payments and put them into a 529 account (we decided on using Wealthfront instead of a state-specific plan).  We’ll continue the 529 contributions until we’ve contributed $20k/each (regardless of how much interest it’s earned along the way).
  • The other 2/3s goes into our overall savings and investment planning.  I experimented with individual college savings accounts but it got too messy with money moving around that I decided to stop that and simplify our overall strategy.

With this plan, the 529 accounts should end up reaching $30k-$35k by the time they graduate high school.  No matter what happens with college education costs or what our daughters decide to do with their lives, this seems like a good bare minimum amount to spend on education.  For the rest, we’ll use money we’ve saved elsewhere, pay with current income, or perhaps even borrow for them at low rates.

The first step to saving for retirement is to understand what retirement really means.  It’s no longer just an age, it’s the time when you have enough income from other sources besides work to be able to support you and your family.

If you haven’t already, create a detailed budget to know what your monthly and annual expenses are.  The main categories to budget for are: housing, health care, transportation, any schooling expenses, monthly recurring expenses, annual expenses, your monthly disposable expenses (food, shopping, etc), and any traveling expenses.  Many people and investment sites then recommend that you reduce this amount a bit to account for less taxes and other expenses in retirement.  A common multiplier used is 85%.  I personally don’t reduce the amount as I’d rather aim high just in case.

Once you have your annual expense number that you need to replace, simply multiply it by 25 to get your magic retirement number.  Why 25 you ask?  Because that follows the 4% safe withdrawal rate rule of thumb.  There was an extensive study (called the Trinity Study) that ran a ton of scenarios over the entire time of the stock market to determine the safest withdrawal rate.  “Safe” is defined as the amount you can withdrawal every year and your money is virtually guaranteed to last 30 years.  This includes retiring right before the Great Depression and other similar stock market shocks.  It’s a hotly debated number in the investment community.  One of the authors themselves recently came out and said he actually withdrawals confidently at 5% (so you could use a multiplier of 20).  People aiming to retire early will definitely want their money to last longer than 30 years, so you may want to withdrawal at 3.5% for your money to last 50 years (28.57 multiplier), according to a recent analysis.  I personally still use 4% as my target.

Now that you know your expenses and your target retirement total, let’s look more specifically at your different types of retirement income and their pros and cons.

  • Tax-advantaged accounts are primarily your 401k and any IRA accounts that you have.  You should try to max out your contributions for both of these if possible.  The downside to be aware of is that you will get heavily penalized if you withdraw any money before age 59.5, so if you plan on retiring early, you should plan on supporting yourself using different income stream(s) until you reach this age.  Also note that once you hit age 72, you are required to begin withdrawing money from these accounts, so keep that in mind to reduce your withdraws from other types of accounts.
  • Brokerage accounts (or other types of private investments) are yours to do whatever you want with, so these will likely be your main source of income if you retire early.  A big advantage to buying stocks with your brokerage account is that you can focus on ones that pay a dividend.  Dividends are money that can go directly to you without having to sell any shares.  You typically reinvest these into additional stocks while you’re still working, but you can change that once you retire.
  • Real estate investments are a great source for passive income.  Any net income you have after expenses can directly come off of what you need to withdraw from your other investment accounts.  As the mortgages are paid off over time, you’ll get a jolt of new passive income without any additional work too.
  • Social security is the biggest unknown to me.  It should be something I can lean on to reduce other savings goals significantly, but it’s become such a political hot potato in recent years that I’m afraid to include it in my retirement planning.  If it’s still around and paying well, the only downside to my planning is that I’ll have extra money, which seems safer than trying to rely on it.  Note that you can’t get social security before age 62, so if you’re planning to retire early you can’t count on it at first, and also be aware that your payments will be lower since you’re contributing less than if you retired later.  If you start collecting social security between ages 62 and 67, you’ll get a reduced payment because you haven’t reached “full retirement age”.  Lastly, if you are able to delay collecting social security until age 70, you’ll get additional money in your monthly payments for life.

In summary, here’s what I did/do:

  • Created a separate area of my budgeting spreadsheet to estimate what my family’s total annual expenses will be in retirement.
  • Next to that, I list out the total annual net income from our investment properties and subtract this from the annual expenses.
  • Then I look at other investment draw down in two ways:
    • First, I take our total current investment balances (combining tax-advantaged with all others) and multiply by 4% to see how much potential income we could have if we retired today.
    • Second, I project out each year’s total balances using our current savings rate and estimated market returns (~7%), and I do this for as many years as it takes to hit the magic retirement number.
  • Then when I update my monthly budget, I’ll update the current balances, see if things are getting better or worse, and then play with all the numbers to daydream different early retirement scenarios.

What better way to start off this blog than with how I started getting more serious about my family’s expenses. The very first thing you have to do if you’re not already is have a centralized place to track your daily expenses. For me personally I use mint.com — it’s one of the first players in this space and while it’s not perfect, it’s pretty darn good and you can customize a lot of things to meet your needs.

Initial setup and evolving categorization

With Mint, you connect all your bank accounts, credit cards, loans, investments, and property and you’ll get a pretty good snapshot of your overall income and expenses very quickly. They will auto-categorize your transactions into a dozen or so groups but about 5-10% of the time they guess incorrectly, so you do have to monitor new transactions and update categories as needed. For your initial setup, just go through the Transactions tab and review each transaction and update accordingly (this may take awhile but it’s worth it!). Once it’s up and running, I set a reminder to review them once a week so I don’t have to do too many at once.

Next, head over to the Budgets tab. It’s been so long that I don’t know if they set up any initial ones for you, but this has been where I’ve evolved my strategy the most over the years. I initially put budgets around nearly every category and sub-category because it only tracks progress against defined budgets, while everything else goes into an untracked bucket at the bottom called…”Everything Else”. Policing expenses that granularly ended up being too high maintenance for me. It’s great to see everything in one place though. It allows you to be very aware of where your money is going, and allows you to trim back unnecessary expenses. I ultimately decided that I didn’t need to see my known, mostly fixed cost, recurring expenses so I removed those budgets entirely (and now I categorize those as a custom Recurring Bills category). After several other variations, I ended up consolidating a lot of the other budgets into some top-level categories (which include all expenses for sub-categories) that I can manage most easily.

The final budget categories I landed on are:

  • Auto & Transport
  • Food & Dining
  • Shopping
  • Travel
  • Entertainment
  • Health & Fitness
  • Kids Activities

Overview and disposable adjustments

Some people may want to stop there, at least for a while, but I continued. I created a separate spreadsheet with three sets of columns for income, savings (always save for yourself first), and then expenses. Under expenses, I have housing (including any car payment), itemized recurring expenses, and then the top-level categories from Mint with the budget amounts listed, which I bucketed as “Disposable”. Now you have an overview of everything in one place and can see how much of your income is spoken for already between housing and recurring expenses and how much you have leftover for any additional savings and the disposable categories. It’s very likely that you’ll need to adjust your disposable budget amounts to ensure you’re spending less than you earn (minus what you save). I personally combine the last three categories above under “Other” in the spreadsheet view as they can be pretty fluid between each other. Make sure you go back into Mint to update the budget amounts there once you’ve landed on the right mix.

Finding hidden expenses

Many people skip this next step but I think it is pretty critical. With everything we’ve discussed so far, you have a good grasp on your monthly cash flow (income minus expenses), but you don’t have a handle on annual expenses yet. Some of them may be obvious while others are not. What I do is have a second tab that tracks every expense over $100 in each month, and I split them into recurring and non-recurring columns. I look for these from the Budgets view so I don’t include any recurring expenses in there. At the end of the year, you have a great list of where you spend your money.

With this list, I group any similar ones and create a new Annual Expenses list on the first tab of my spreadsheet with associated costs. Now you have additional costs that you need to be saving for. I divide the annual expenses by 12 for a “monthualized” amount that I need to weave into my budget. This amount should be put aside into a savings account each month, or if you’re fortunate enough to get a bonus at work, you can put aside a chunk of this at the beginning of the year. You will likely have to adjust your disposable budget amounts yet again to ensure you can afford these somewhat hidden expenses.

My annual expenses, for example:

  • Any annual memberships (AAA, museums, etc)
  • Birthday parties (these often hide as just expensive restaurant transactions)
  • Car and any other insurance not included in your mortgage payment
  • Car registration for city and state
  • Child aftercare, seasonal activities, and summer camps (it’s easier to shoulder the expense if you spread out these costs over the whole year)
  • Donations
  • IRA contribution (I do an annual contribution but you could do monthly)

Summary and maintenance

In summary, do the following to get control of your budget:

  1. Centralize and categorize your transactions
  2. Determine which budget categories you want to review regularly
  3. Look at what you can actually afford and adjust budget amounts
  4. Seek out non-monthly recurring expenses and ensure you budget for them

It sounds like a lot, but it doesn’t take a lot to maintain. Here’s what I do:

  • Once a week, review all new transactions since your last review. Update any transaction categories as needed, then look at your budgets to see if you’re on track or need to slow down spending in any of them.
  • Once a month, review the previous month and see how you did. Look at the budgets to see where you went under or over, then review all transactions in each category to look for new hidden recurring expenses. Over time you’ll get better and better, I promise!